At first sight, when seeing a Palestinian Thobe (dress), it appears that its identity and the region it comes from mainly lie in its Tatreez (embroidery) patterns, their arrangement, and their colors. However, the Palestinian dress is much more complex than that. Its true identity is formed by the combination of several elements: the cut and form of the dress, the fabric used, the design of the embroidery patterns, the colors, and the type of stitches employed. It is the harmony between these factors that gives the Palestinian dress its cultural identity and reveals the region to which it belongs. The Palestinian village women were masters in how they turned their dresses into real masterpieces.
Palestinian Stitch Library
Village Jellaya, festive dress from Beit Dajan (Jaffa area), circa 1910.This dress features the typical Beit Dajan Juyoub (pockets), also known as the Beit Dajan amulet design — a pattern unique to Beit Dajan.
Stitches used: Qutbe al-Fallahieh (Cross-Stitch), Leff (Stem Stitch), Satin Stitch (Filling Stitch), Sunbule (Fishbone Stitch), Tashreefe (Appliqué Binding Stitch), Habkeh (Edge Binding Stitch).
Beit Dajan Joyoub (pockets), also known as the Beit Dajan amulet design — a pattern unique to Beit Dajan.
Beit Dajan Hem Design
This hem design was unique to Beit Dajan and other Jaffa villages.
Color Palette of Beit Dajan and Nearby Jaffa Villages, Dark red was the dominant color, with secondary colors used in equal balance.
Detail from the sleeve of the same Jellaya. Stitches used: Qutbe al-Fallahieh (Cross-Stitch), Leff (Stem Stitch), Satin Stitch (Filling Stitch), Sunbule (Fishbone Stitch), Tashreefe (Appliqué Binding Stitch), Habkeh (Edge Binding Stitch).
Every Palestinian thobe (dress) usually featured at least three to four different types of stitches, with the number and variety depending on the region where the dress was made. Dresses from Ramallah and its surrounding area typically had around four to five different types of stitches, while dresses from Jaffa, Ramleh, and Lydda, as well as from Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and the Hebron area, often featured six to seven types of stitches. As for Gaza, dresses from this region developed their own set of connecting stitches, known as Akedet Ghezze.
Chest Panel from a Village Dress from the Jerusalem Area, ca. 1910s
This dress features eight stitches: 1. cross-stitch (Qutbe al-Fallahieh), 2. couching (Rasheq), 3. couching (Tahrireh), 4. ending stitch of the neckline (Habkeh), 5. braid stitch (Jadla), 6. fishbone stitch (Sunbele), 7. Tashreefe (appliqué stitch), and 8. satin stitch
A visual summary of the stitches used in the different regions of Palestine
Detail from a side panel of a dress from Abood village, Ramallah area, circa 1900.
Stitches: The Old Fallahi Stitch (Mixture of Holbein and Zigzag Stitch), Qutbe al-Fallahieh (Cross-Stitch), Sbeleh (Laid Satin Stitch).
Detail from a Ramallah chest panel, circa 1920.
Stitches: Jadleh (Braid Stitch), Qutbe al-Fallahieh (Cross-Stitch), Habkeh (Edge Binding Stitch)
Detail of a sleeve and chest panel from a dress from Beit Nabala, Ramla region, circa 1930. Stitches: Qutbe al-Fallahieh (Cross-Stitch), Satin Stitch (Filling Stitch), Aghabani (Chain Stitch), Raqmeh (Zigzag Stitch).
Detail from a dress from Arab al-Suttariya, Ramla region. Side panel, circa 1930.Stitches: Sbeleh (Laid Satin Stitch), Qutbe al-Fallahieh (Cross-Stitch), Leff (Stem Stitch) with Satin Stitch (Filling Stitch).
Detail from a sleeve of a Bethlehem festive Malak dress, circa 1925.
Stitches: Sbeleh (Zigzag Connecting Stitch), Tahrireh (Couching Stitch), Sunbule (Fishbone Stitch).
Detail from a sleeve of a Hebron dress, Dura village, Hebron area, circa 1925. Stitches: Habkeh (Edge Binding Stitch), Leff (Stem Stitch) with Satin Stitch (Filling Stitch), Tashreefe (Appliqué Binding Stitch), Qutbe al-Fallahieh (Cross-Stitch), Running Stitch.
Detail from a sleeve of a Bethlehem everyday dress, circa 1920. Stitches: Habkeh (Edge Binding Stitch), Sbeleh (Laid Satin Stitch with a Knot), Qutbe al-Fallahieh (Cross-Stitch).
Detail from a Gaza area dress.
Stitches: Aqeedat Ghazzeh (Knot and Line Connecting Stitch).
The stitches used on the Palestinian dress were divided into two main categories: purely decorative stitches and purely functional stitches. Decorative stitches served to embellish the thobe, mainly featured on the chest panel, side panels, sleeves, and back panels. Functional stitches were essential for the construction of the dress, used to connect different parts, apply decorative panels, or finish hems and necklines.
This dress from the northern Gaza area, circa 1920, features eight different stitches, seven of which are shown in the details below.
1 Sleeve ending stitch
Tashreefe (Zigzag Appliqué Binding Stitch), Running Stitch, Couching (Rashq) with Satin Stitch.The decorative ending is called Tashreefe
2 Side of the dress
Cross-Stitch (Qutbe al-Fallahieh), Connecting Stitch (Manjele), Couching (Rashq) with Satin Stitch.
3 Hem of the thobe
Jadle (Braid Stitch), Double Running Stitch.
Among the decorative stitches, the two most common throughout Palestine were the cross-stitch (Qutbe al-Fallahieh) and the couching stitch (Tahriri). In addition to these, many other decorative stitches enriched the embroidery.
Each part of the thobe required a specific application of stitches, reflecting the region and traditions of its origin. In fact, each area of Palestine had its own distinct style of ending stitches, and often the place from which a dress came could be recognized just by observing the style and technique of its ending stitches of the hem.
This dress from the Jerusalem area, circa 1910, features a typical hem ending found in dresses from the villages of the Jerusalem region. The hem is decorated with a Tashreefeh (zigzag Appliqué Binding Stitch) combined with a Habke (Edge Binding Stitch)
On this side panel from a Bait Dajan village dress (Jaffa area), we see the two main decorative stitches used in Palestine: the Qutbe al-Fallahieh (Cross-Stitch) and the Tahrireh (Couching Stitch).
Types of stitches
1. Decorative Stitches (قطب الزينة)
Qutbe al-Fallahieh (قطبة الفلاحية) – Cross-Stitch
Jadle (جدلة) – Braid Stitch
Tahrireh (تحريرة) – Metallic Couching Stitch
Qasap (قصب) – Gold Couching (Ramallah Term)
Rashq (رشق) – Floss Couching Stitch
Al-Qutbeh al-Fallahieh al-Qadimeh (القطبة الفلاحية القديمة) – The Old Fallahi Stitch
Sunbule (سنبلة) – Fishbone Stitch
Leff (لفّ) – Stem Stitch
Satin Stitch – (no Arabic term; left as is)
Aghabani (أغباني) – Chain Stitch
Tashreefe (تشريفة) – Appliqué Binding Stitch
Raqmeh (رقمة) – Zigzag Stitch
Feather Stitch and Double Feather Stitch – (no Arabic term; left as is)
Nol (نول) – Buttonhole Wheel Stitch
2. Ending Stitches (قطب النهاية)
Habkeh (حبكة) – Edge Binding Stitch
Habkeh (حبكة) – Buttonhole Edge Stitch
Habkeh (حبكة) – Double Buttonhole Stitch
3. Connecting Stitches (مناجل)
Manjele (منجيلة) – Zigzag Joining Stitch
Sbeleh (سبيلة) – Laid Satin Stitch Join
Aqeedat Ghazzeh (عقيدة غزة) – Knot and Line Joining Stitch